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Yellow spots appear for various reasons: poor soil cultivation, drought, too much dead organic matter (matting), or poor aeration. Some commons causes of yellow spots are: The lawn lacks nutrients; The pH value of the lawn is not right, which means that nutrients are not properly absorbed by the soil; Over-fertilisation: causes the grass to burn and turn yellow; Pests such as grubs and blackheads that attack the roots of the grass.
A good way to get rid of moss is to scarify. Use our Scarifying Kit Standard: it includes everything you need to prepare, scarify, and repair your lawn. Before scarifying, sprinkle Iron Plus 2-in-1 fertiliser after mowing. This makes the grass more robust and resistant to the scarifying process that can stress your lawn. After scarifying, spread more fertiliser to help your lawn recover. Then re-sow the entire lawn with fresh lawn seed (all included), and finally sprinkle lime on the lawn to counteract the acidification of the soil. Wait at least three weeks before spreading lime after fertilising.
Most fungal diseases can be prevented by improving the drainage of your soil. Regularly aerating the lawn and the correct fertiliser will combat most fungal lawn infections. A common fungal disease is Reddish-Thread, which can be recognised by the reddish-brown glow of the affected parts of the lawn. If you look closely, you can see the fungal threads. Red-thread can be prevented by fertilising the lawn with a nitrogen fertiliser. Use Spring Boost in the spring, along with Easy Mow fertiliser in the summer.
Grubs and earthworms eat the roots of the grass and cause unsightly spots to appear in the lawn. Sometimes you can see the grass plant lying “loose” on the lawn. By cutting off a piece of the turf and looking underneath, you can see the larvae. The advice is to first fight the larvae, possibly by using nematodes, then to roll and scarify the lawn. Finally, fertilise and overseed the lawn.
Clover is a sign of moisture and a lack of nitrogen. Therefore, fertilise three to four times a year with a fertiliser specially designed for that season. It is also best to water in the early morning and not too often; once a week is enough if it does not rain that week. Clover can withstand mowing, but it is still important to mow frequently so that you stimulate the growth of the grass. If you scarify in the spring or autumn, you can pull out the clover. The roots will then be more exposed. Also make sure you have a dense lawn by resowing the entire lawn every year, so weeds have less of a chance!
Fertilising is essential for a healthy lawn. More information on fertilising can be found here.
Lawn care is dependent on the weather – requiring the right temperature and moisture levels before it activates fully. It may take a few extra days before the fertiliser works depending on the ambient conditions.
Make sure there are enough nutrients in the soil by fertilising the lawn four times a year. Our fertilisers are specially tailored to deliver the precise nutrient requirements of your lawn for each season. Use this as a seasons guide: Spring: Spring boost lawn fertiliser. Summer: Long lasting lawn fertiliser. Early autumn: All-round lawn fertiliser. Autumn: All-round lawn fertiliser.
Most soils become acid from the natural breakdown of organic matter. Lime restores the acidity level (pH) of overly acid soil. When the pH is right, the grass absorbs nutrients better. Lime, therefore, ensures that your soil absorbs fertilisers better.
Lime binds to nitrogen. If you spread lime and fertiliser too closely together, they bind to each other, and you lose the effect of both. Leave at least three weeks between liming and fertilising.
The right pH value is between 5.5 and 6.5.
Over-fertilisation can cause unsightly burnt spots in the lawn due to the sun. If in doubt, spray the lawn extra well with a large amount of water after fertilising to ensure that the soil immediately absorbs as much fertiliser as possible.
Compost, cow manure or mushroom manure are soil improvers – good for a humus-rich soil. However, they don’t provide enough nutrients to the grass to replace fertiliser. Therefore, use good soil mixed with compost when creating a lawn or top dressing, but also fertilise the lawn three to four times a year with our fertilisers.
No. Our fertilisers are harmless to pets. However, we do recommend watering the lawn immediately after fertilising. This ensures that the soil absorbs the fertiliser more quickly.
We do not specify settings for spreaders, as the quantity of spread depends on other factors, such as walking speed and walking pattern. For best results: Calculate how much fertiliser you need for the size of your lawn, and divide it into two equal parts. Set the spreader to one of the lowest settings, put the first half in the spreader and walk the entire lawn lengthways. Add the second half of the fertiliser (even if you have some fertiliser remaining). Adjust the spreader to a slightly higher setting, and cover the entire lawn widthways. If you still have fertiliser left over, walk diagonally, spreading the remainder. You can also do this up to three times to spread it evenly.
If the soil temperature is below 10 ℃, the grass seed will not germinate – it’s nature! 🙂 When the temperature reaches around 10 ℃ or a little higher, the germination process will get going and grass will begin to appear within a couple of weeks..
To answer this question, we distinguish between two applications: 34g per square metre for sowing a new lawn; 17g per square metre for over-seeding an existing lawn.
Spring and early autumn are the best periods. The soil temperature must be at least 10 degrees for the grass seeds to germinate. The soil temperature is not the same as the air temperature and stays cold longer in spring, while the soil temperature stays warm longer in autumn. In this article, Louis provides tips for successful sowing.
Calculate the amount of grass seed needed: 34g per square metre to sow a new lawn or 17g per square metre to overseed an existing lawn. Do you have a large lawn? Divide the lawn into smaller parts and calculate the amount of grass seed needed per part. Divide the necessary amount of seed into two. Spread the first part lengthways and the second part widthways. Lightly rake the grass seed into the soil to ensure optimum contact. Roll with a lawn roller (or press the seed into the soil with your shoes on a small lawn). The grass seed makes better contact with the soil and is less likely to be washed away. Water and keep the soil sufficiently moist until the seed sprouts. It is better to water lightly four times a day than to water heavily once a day to avoid the risk of drying out or leaching. Also read these tips from Louis on the right conditions for sowing grass seed.
Don’t give weeds a chance and replant bare spots in time as follows: – Mix some soil and compost in a bucket (70/30); – Add the grass seed; – Mix well; – Now scatter the mixture on the desired spot +-1cm thick; – Press down with your feet; – moisten and provide sufficient moisture for 14 days.
The grass seed germinates within 7 to 14 days. These are approximate timings – sometimes the grass seed germinates quicker; occasionally grass seed needs a little longer to fully germinate.
Check the conditions: Is the soil warm enough? Did the grass seed make sufficient soil contact? Have you kept the soil sufficiently moist? Direct soil contact is needed. If there’s a layer of old organic material on the top layer of the soil, the seed might struggle to germinate. Can you see the grass seed still lying scattered around the lawn or has it been washed away? Read more about optimal conditions for grass seed germination in this article by Louis. Or watch this video on YouTube. If you cannot identify the cause for yourself, we will be happy to explore the possibilities with you. Contact us for personal advice.
Usually the damage is limited, but in a very bird-rich garden, place prickers with pieces of silver foil attached to them to scare the birds away.
When the grass germinates you should not walk on it for 14 days, as young grass bruises quickly and does not recover.
After opening, grass seed lasts at least another year if stored in a dark and dry place.
Grass needs space to develop into a beautiful green lawn. By space we mean “room between the grass plants”. This space is often taken up by moss, weeds or a layer of felt. Scarifying creates space. More information on scarifying can be found here
Scarifying is an important maintenance technique for removing moss or dead organic material, also known as the thatch layer or felt. This organic material chokes your lawn. Verticutting (mowing vertically) will give the grass more room to develop.
Scarifying puts a strain on the lawn, which is why it is best to scarify in a period when the grass is growing well (in the spring from March to May, and in the autumn from the end of August to October).
If your lawn produces a lot of thatch and moss, you should dethatch it annually. This keeps it fresh and prevents it from becoming too big a chore. If the thatch layer is less than 1cm, you can dethatch every other year. If the thatch layer is 2cm, you should definitely scarify every year. Note: if you leave grass clippings on the lawn, the thatch layer will grow faster.
Weeds & Moss
Weeds nestle in poorly maintained areas of your lawn. Has the grass been cut too short? Has it received little or no extra nutrition? Are there any bare spots? In those conditions, your lawn becomes a weed haven. But weeds can also enter your lawn through bird droppings, the wind, or through compost.
Weeds in your lawn can be controlled in the following ways: Manually. You can remove a lot of weeds by hand, but with a weed whacker you can remove weeds from the roots (and you won’t don’t have to bend over). However, this is a time-consuming job. A plus point is that you do not damage other plants. Pesticides: Choose a weed killer that will not kill your lawn. Use a pressure sprayer, and read the instructions carefully. Make sure you wear protective clothing.
Mow regularly and do not cut the grass too short. This helps the grass form a better barrier, preventing weeds. For ornamental lawns, mow to at least 3cm. For shaded lawns and playgrounds, cut to 4cm. – Make sure you have a dense turf, by overseeding bare spots. – Like all plants, the roots of the lawn need oxygen. Aerate your lawn once a year. – Your lawn also needs nutrition. This nutrition comes in the form of a fertiliser. It is important to fertilise your lawn 3 to 4 times a year.